You can't shrink 'em, but you can make them look smaller
TRUNK ARCHIVE FOR FENTY SKIN
True or false: You can shrink your pores.
If you answered true, you’re—to be blunt—wrong. But don’t sweat it: With so many products making that claim and influencers touting glass-like skin, it’s understandable that you’d get swept up in this misconception; there’s arguably no beauty topic more plagued with misinformation. “It drives me nuts. Everyone online is saying that you can get rid of pores, and you simply can’t,” says New York City dermatologist Robyn Gmyrek, MD. “People are comparing themselves to filtered photographs when having pores is totally normal.”
Meet our experts: Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a New York City dermatologist, Kristel Polder, MD, an adjunct assistant professor at the University of Texas Southwestern department of Dermatology, Sean Garrette, a Dior skin-care expert, and aesthetician
But while it’s important to realize they’re not a nuisance that should (or even can) be eradicated, you still may want your skin to look a little smoother. The TL;DR: Pores
aren’t going anywhere, but there are ways to make them appear smaller if you want. We spoke to the experts to learn how.
First, what are pores and what do they do?
To start, they exist pretty much all over our bodies and are the MVP of healthy skin function. Biologically, they serve as the opening of a hair follicle. Inside is a sebaceous gland that churns out a skin oil called sebum (we have a different type of pore that excretes sweat only). “That sebum passes through and lubricates the surface of your skin,” says Kristel Polder, MD, an adjunct assistant professor at the University of Texas Southwestern Department of dermatology. You’re born with a set number of pores: The range is based on ethnicity, gender, and the size of your body (Dr. Polder cites 5 million as the average). Approximately 20,000 of those are found on the face.
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You’re also born with a predetermined pore size, which is based on your genetics, too, says Dr. Gmyrek. And no matter what your favorite influencer says, the size of your pores cannot change. Translation: There’s no magical way to “shrink” them. What can change is how big or small they look. “When dead skin cells, makeup, dirt, or, most importantly, oil gets trapped inside of a pore, it appears larger,” says Dr. Polder. That’s why oily skin and prominent pores go hand in hand, and why pores tend to be most noticeable in the T-zone, where there’s a higher concentration of sebaceous glands. When some of that oil oxidizes and darkens—turning into a blackhead—it becomes even more visible.
Pores also start to look larger as we get older because a natural breakdown of collagen and elastin causes the skin to droop and sag, making them appear more pronounced than they do on a firmer complexion, says Dr. Polder.
How to make your pores look smaller
“You may not be able to alter the size of your pores, but a consistent skin-care routine can help them seem smaller,” says Sean Garrette, a Dior skin-care expert, and aesthetician. The importance of cleansing can’t be overstated—simply cleaning out all that debris helps considerably. Dr. Gmyrek recommends using a face wash with salicylic acid, a fat-soluble beta hydroxy acid that dissolves pore-clogging oil better than alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic. The best time to cleanse is in the shower or right after you step out. The steam won’t open your pores (that’s another myth, as there’s no biological mechanism that allows that to happen!), but it can soften up stuck gunk and make it easier to remove.
In the morning, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen; both are essential preventive products for maintaining healthy collagen and elastin to keep skin taut. And don’t forget to moisturize properly. “Some ingredients in richer moisturizers cause clogging, so look for lightweight, water-based formulas that will impart plenty of hydration without collecting in your pores,” says Garrette. In the evening, reach for a retinoid. “They decrease oil, increase cell turnover to prevent buildup, and stimulate collagen,” says Dr. Gmyrek.
Herbivore Aquarius BHA + Blue Tansy Clarifying Cleanser
A beta hydroxy acid–based wash removes pore-blocking impurities. That’s awesome, but this one also contains oil-regulating zinc to prevent future clogs.